Albert Szent-Györgyi was the Hungarian scientist who discovered Vitamin C- a notable accomplishment by itself but his discovery was the source of still more pride for Hungary because he did so using their national spice, paprika. Paprika actually found its way to Hungary via the Turks in the 16th century. It now sits side by side with the salt shaker on dining tables across Hungary. Paprika is used in many popular Hungarian dishes, perhaps the best known dish being the Hungarian Goulash or Gulyas.
Hungarian food extends beyond the goulash. They are also known for their strudels, soups, stews, dumplings, sausages and even their wine. Traditional Hungarian food pulls influences from the Magyars and focuses on meats with pork, beef and mutton being the most common meats. Dishes often use one, two or all three main meats at once. Goose and chicken are the common poultry. Traditional cooking methods include braising and stewing and lots of hot or sweet paprika! Seasonal vegetables often accompany the meat based dishes as well as noodles, dumplings or potatoes. Prolific use of onions, cheese and sour cream help to round out the plate. While many of the meals are high fat meals, the spices in them may actually offer protection against the high fat content. The paprika that is so prevalent is not only high in vitamin C and other antioxidants but may have other health benefits as well. In recent years paprika and other spices have been investigated for their ability to reduce the body’s negative response to a high fat meal, namely paprika is thought to prevent a spike in triglycerides. If triglyceride levels are routinely elevated it can create a increased risk for heart disease. Paprika and many other spices are used in Hungarian cooking which lends it a pleasant warmth but I definitely would not say it’s spicy. Budapest is a large, very charming city with a very international culture and food culture. You can find foods from all over the world. I definitely recommend the Jewish district which is known for its incredible tradition and non-traditional foods.
While we enjoyed some healthier traditional Hungarian options and healthier international options, we also tried some of the amazing, indulgent delicacies that Budapest has to offer including their foie gras. Hungary is also known for its goose liver or foie gras. We were lucky enough to be in Budapest during the goose liver festival and tried their deep fried foie gras. Decidedly not the healthiest option, but it was definitely a unique experience and something that we had to try. Fortunately, the foie gras was sold by weight, so we had automatic portion control!
Must Try:
Kurtos Kulacs– dough rolled thin, wrapped around what looks like a rolling pin, dipped in sugar and then cooked over an open fire rotisserie style. Once the dough is cooked through, it is dunked in another topping of your choice from chocolate to cinnamon to walnuts (I personally loved the walnuts!) and served hot. Not only are they delicious, it is a ton of fun to watch them cook!
Goulash (Gulyas)– While goulash varies from place to place, in Hungary it is a hearty soup consistency as opposed to a stew consistency and traditionally made with pork or beef, carrots, onions and potatoes. Goulash is traditionally served alongside a cold cucumber salad with salt, vinegar, sugar, onion, dill and sour cream.
Turogomboc – sweetened cottage cheese dumplings that will rock your world. Amazing!
Turos Csusza– a savory version of the above dumplings, instead of being sweetened they are flavored with bacon. Yup, bacon.
Foie Gras Festival (Libamáj Fesztivál)– if you happen to be in Budapest during this festival in the early fall be sure to visit! Try the decadent foie gras,pick up some Hungarian paprika, try a craft beer, sample a variety of artisanal cheeses, meats and breads and the traditional, super stiff, palinka. There are also games, rides, live music, cooking classes, activities for kids and great people watching. Tons of fun and lots of delicious food!
Stuffed Cabbage (Toltott Kaposzta)– cabbage leaves cooked in flavorful vinegar (don’t worry, they don’t taste vinegary) then stuffed with tender, flavorful ground pork (or beef) and simmered in a tomato sauce with sauerkraut and served with cool, creamy sour cream. Delicious!
Dobos Torte– this amazing sponge cake layered with chocolate buttercream and caramel originated in Hungary and even if you have tried the pale imitations elsewhere, get a slice here and prepare to be blown away!
What to Drink:
Red Wine (Bor)– Hungary produces a variety of award winning and delicious wines, but very few other them are exported so much of the world has no idea how good Hungary’s wines really are. Definitely try some of the excellent and very cheap wines that are available in Budapest. They have a traditional red wine known as “bull’s blood” which is a strong, dry, red wine from the regions of Szekszard or Eger.
Restaurants to Try:
DiVino Wine Bar– this great little place has over 120 different kinds of wine served by the glass or bottle, many of them come from small Hungarian wineries. The servers are knowledgeable and friendly. We went in and were a bit overwhelmed by the large selection but, even though it was New Year’s Eve and very crowded, our waiter took the time to really get a feel for what we were looking for. He asked numerous questions about our taste preferences and we ended up with two phenomenal bottles of wine, both midrange as far as price. The prices are very reasonable and we spent less than $10 apiece on the bottles. The food is also very good, we had the cheese plate as an appetizer and I had an incredible goose leg in a ginger pumpkin sauce. The three of us had dinner, the cheese plate and two bottles of wine for just under $100 and it was all excellent!
Koleves– recommended by our walking tour guide, this restaurant seems to always be packed and for good reason. The food is fantastic, fresh and well prepared, and the servers friendly. They have a large wine list and plenty of vegetarian options. It is located in the heart of my favorite neighborhood, the Jewish District.
Hummus Bar– another fun and funky place in the Jewish District, but it is a chain (which I just found out after a quick google search) so there are locations throughout the city. We enjoyed some epic stuffed pita sandwiches stuffed with hummus, eggplant, eggs and falafel all while enjoying a great view of the Jewish District. Service was good and prices were reasonable.
Okay Italia– a chain of Italian restaurants that can be found all over the city. The food is good (we had pizza and pasta) and the service is fine as well. I ordered a pizza with a whole wheat crust (which the menu made clear was an option) and was told that the whole wheat crust would have to be brought in and it would take at least 30 extra minutes. So, I ordered regular crust, but I was a little disappointed that the server was so intent on talking me out of the whole wheat crust.
400 Bar- a great location in the Jewish District and a fun, but loud, atmosphere. It’s a great place to people watch and the burgers are very good. The other things we tried on the menu were only pretty good, the burgers were definitely the star!
Instant– (pronounced In-sh-taunt), more ruin pub than restaurant, the food is fine, but the experience is worth going for. Instant is a ruin pub, one of many in the city, and definitely worth checking out. Ruin pubs were once abandoned buildings that have been converted into pub/club space. There are tons of different rooms with different themes, wild and wacky decorations and an overall relaxed and fun atmosphere.