We loved, loved, loved everything about Lyon- from it’s incredibly spacious Parc de la Tête d’Or to their super user friendly bike rentals located throughout the city. And, of course, because it’s France, we loved every bite of cheese, every crumb of bread and every sip of wine.
Even though we were there in January, the weather was very pleasant, it was occasionally windy, but fairly warm and the sun came out most days (except, of course, the two days we absolutely HAD to be somewhere).
Did I mention I also loved the food? I am going to say it again- the food was incredible! We met up with French food blogger, freelance writer, occasional chef instructor, Lyon native (and fellow KU alum!) and all around amazing, Anne-Liesse (of bulleetblog.com) at Chez Thomas to discuss Lyon, wine and, of course, food! The lunch was quite good, the conversation easy and educational!
Truffles
Truffle season was currently in full swing and Nick enjoyed shaved black truffles on his dish (fun story about black truffles- black truffles are traditionally foraged with the help of pigs. While the pigs are quite useful at sniffing out the truffles, they are also big fans of the delicacy and will eat them right up if they have a chance! In more recent years, dogs have been used to sniff out truffles, they have a nose for finding them, but are less interested in eating the spoils!)
The Food in Lyon
Traditional fare in Lyon pulls influence from both the north part of France and the southern, more mediterranean parts of France. They liberally use butter and olive oil, fish, fresh, seasonal vegetables and game. Food in Lyon is a great source of pride.
Lyon natives have very high standards about food and tend to have high expectations at restaurants. They also tend to stick with more traditional foods, eschewing newer, trendier options. And why shouldn’t they? They are part of an illustrious food heritage and their traditional foods are absolutely amazing.
Traditional specialties in Lyon are typically meat based, with quenelles, kidneys, sausages, and other offal dishes (no part of the animal, usually a pig, is unused!) are all part of the usual fare. Of course, Lyon is also home to the famous chef, Paul Bocuse who has had a definite impact on the food culture in Lyon.
Looking for Something a bit Healthier?
If you are looking for something a little healthier, head to Les Halles to peruse the premade salads, grilled vegetables and other vegetable heavy fare and fresh fish and fish dishes (including oysters!).
When dining out many dishes feature chicken or fish, so look for those options over the fattier sausages. Not a lot of healthier traditional options, even Salade Lyonnaise, with its healthy sounding name, is quite heavy featuring bacon strips (lardons), poached eggs and a bacon fat based dressing (don’t get me wrong, it is delicious, but not a light dish).
Anne-Liesse did tell us about one restaurant (one of her favorites), Yaafa, a vegetarian falafel restaurant. But if you are looking for lighter, traditional fare, there are fewer choices. The traditional food is preferred over healthier dishes and it’s not hard to see why with such incredible foods!
However, the interest in organic foods is increasing and highlighting vegetables, especially root vegetables and seasonal vegetables are increasing in popularity. Red kabocha squash is common and in the last few years butternut squash has gained popularity.
Must Try
A short list that could be much longer!
Saucisson en brioche
A more refined, grown up version of a pig in a blanket, this treat is sausage baked in brioche. The sweet, buttery taste of brioche provides a soft contrast to the sausage. This makes a great “on-the-go” snack!
Quenelles
Another Lyon specialty, quenelles, which use ordinary, bony fish out of the Rhone and transform them into a delicate, tasty mousse-like dumpling are nothing short of superb. They are made by mixing creamed fish with an egg binding and breadcrumbs or flour, and formed using two spoons, a feat that takes years of practice! The quenelles are then poached and served in a rich, creamy sauce.
Anything with Black Truffle
If you happen to be there during truffles season (November through February), these are a must! An expensive, luxurious delicacy that adds a unique flavor to any dish. Anne-Liesse recommended adding them to scrambled eggs for breakfast perfection!
Salade Lyonnaise
A warm salad of bitter greens, warm, tangy dressing, bacon strips, croutons and a poached egg. The butter greens cut through the salty, bacony dressing and the richness of the egg and the lardons make for a unique and very tasty salad- perfect as a main course!
Cheese
Any and all of it!
Praline Tart
Sweet and crunchy, these tarts can be found all over the city and are very tasty. A praline is a candied almond and they get their signature dark pink color from the pink sugar they are candied in.
Cervelle de Canu
A creamy, cheesy dip made out of a cream cheese, chopped herbs (parsley and chives) and shallots/garlic and finished with a drizzle of olive oil and vinegar. Delicious on just about anything, just don’t ask for the translation!
Visiting Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
Pick up quenelles, cheese, meat, confections, saucisson en brioche, vegetables, salads, fresh fish or anything else! The market is full of taste sensations that have to be seen and tasted to be believed! Fresh seafood, meats, cheeses and wines are available for take away, or grab a seat at one of the numerous small restaurants and enjoy lunch at the market. This was one of my favorite places in Lyon and I highly, highly recommend it!
Try Your Hand at French Cooking
We visited Delicieusement Votre where we had an absolute blast, learned a lot and made some amazing food. Check out the review HERE. There are numerous other cooking classes offered throughout the city, including one at In Cuisine a cafe, bookstore and cooking school!
What to Drink
Wine, of course!
Being in the Rhône valley, there are two specialties that are near and dear to the hearts of the people of Lyon- try a Saint-Joseph or a Crozes Hermitage (both feature Syrah grapes) and you will not be disappointed.
Restaurants to Try
Obviously not an inclusive list, if you know of another great restaurant, let me know so I can include it!
Canut et les Gones
We went to this unassuming bouchon for lunch on a particularly windy Thursday. The decor of the place is so fun, super eclectic (there is a room full of clocks!) but very cozy and there is an undeniably charm. The servers were quite attentive and spoke excellent English. We both ordered of the plat du jour menu (a good amount of food for a very reasonable €11).
I went for duck confit with cabbage and mashed potatoes with sun dried tomatoes. Nick got the pork with a brown mustard sauce, sautéed spinach and puréed pumpkin with vanilla. Both of us loved our dishes- the proteins were tender and the veggies perfectly cooked. It was absolutely outstanding!!
Chez Thomas
We visited the main restaurant, but there are various iterations throughout the block, from the Cantinetta to the high end La Reserve and the Cafe which served €9 lunch plates du jour. The main restaurant was cozy and very cute, if a little loud. We sat back by the kitchen which may have influenced the noise.
We didn’t get menus, there was a menu du jour which was brought to us written on a chalkboard and then an oral menu, we were told we could pick and choose from either menu. Everything we had was excellent! The house specialty was the french toast dessert which was a bit heavy but very tasty. The servers were attentive and very friendly. All in all, it was a nice place but a bit expensive at €33 per person for lunch.
Daniel et Denis
We didn’t get the chance to visit but it came very highly recommended by Anne-Liesse. Check out her favorite restaurants HERE.
Other Notes
Many restaurants are closed on Mondays, so if you find one that is open, make a reservation to ensure you get a table!