Buenos Aires is a melting pot of different cultures, this is evident in their architecture as well as their food. There is a strong Italian influence that permeates both. There are little bodegas along the bigger avenues selling fresh made pastas, gnocchis and raviolis. Bakeries abound, their delicious, buttery sweet smells piped out onto the streets and following us for blocks as we pass them. We live 4 blocks away from a subway station and pass 3 gelato shops just on our walk to the subway station and at least that number of pizzerias.
But Buenos Aires has an identity of its own as well, with its numerous parillas- the steakhouses here that offer a number of different kinds of grilled beef and its ubiquitous empanadas filled with anything from meat and chicken to vegetables to ham and pineapple. Most of the meals are meat based with beef being king, although chicken and pork are also widely available. There are also plenty of international choices from burgers to mediterranean restaurants to Venezuelan food- it is a very international city.
There are a few large grocery stores here, but mostly there are lots of small fruit and vegetable stands, butcher shops, bakeries, and fresh made pasta shops. The emphasis is on small shops with high quality, specialty foods.
The food culture is unique as well, there is a strong emphasis on lingering over meals and enjoying them. No one even gets their coffees to go, instead coffee is savored with friends and conversation in the cafes. The waiters never rush you, they wait until they are signaled to bring the bill. One of the best examples I have of lingering over a dinner comes from our experience at a Puerto Cerrado. Puerto Cerrados are a trendy phenomenon here that came about as a result of the economic collapse in 2001. To supplement their income chefs opened their homes to serve incredible, multi course meals and wine pairings to those in the know. We went to one, snagging an early reservation and showed up promptly at nine. Five incredible courses and several glasses of wine later we left a little after midnight. There was plenty of time to enjoy each course, with enough time between courses to build suspense. Truly amazing.
Looking for something a bit Healthier?
Hit up the local fruit and vegetable stores to pick up some fresh fruits and veggies. Then head over to the bakeries to pick up a whole wheat baguette or loaf of bread (finding whole grain options in the resturants is difficult). There are many international restaurants, delis and vegetarian restaurants here that emphasize vegetables, though the traditional foods are a little light on fruit and vegetable options. Overall we found that vegetables are not a common part of many dishes here. Look at some of the leaner cuts of meat or opt for chicken when eating out to keep it a little healthier and smother it in the delicious chimichurri sauce for added antioxidants and flavor.
Must Try:
Visit a Parilla– Buenos Aires knows meat. The abundant parillas on every street are proof that the art of grilling is alive and well here. If you have a chance I highly recommend the chorizo beef. It’s not the sausage, it is a tender, delectable cut of beef that we learned about from some local friends. The sausages are also exceptional and worth a try. Learn more about Argentinian beef HERE.
Empanadas– stuffed with anything and everything from chicken and beef to veggie or ham and cheese, these tasty treats are far from healthy but are a great splurge item every once in a while. Or try the healthier, high fiber version HERE.
Choripan– another not so healthy but uber delicious option, these grilled bratwurst like sausages in a baguette are the ultimate street food in Buenos Aires. Ask for it “completo” and get it topped with ham, cheese, tomato and lettuce. Then add chimichurri to your hearts content for a tasty afternoon meal as you explore the feria or the parks where choripan stands can always be found.
Alfajores– Try them at your own risk, these sandwich cookies are downright addictive! Two soft cookies filled with caramely dulce de leche and covered with chocolate or dipped in coconut flakes. There are many different brands of packaged alfajores and they can be bought freshly made at many bakeries.
Chimichiri– loaded with fresh herbs and antioxidants, this condiment that is available everywhere from street food stalls to higher end restaurants is a taste sensation that must be tried to be believed. Herbs and spices are blended with olive oil to make a flavorful sauce with a pleasant spice and tang that complements meats, veggies and probably even old shoes!
Puerto Cerrado– These “closed door” restaurants are not only a fun and very personal experience, the food is also absolutely wonderful. Each meal is hand crafted in small quantities by a chef using seasonal, high quality ingredients. Many can be found on the internet, but make friends with a local and you will likely find ones that don’t advertise.
What to Drink:
Yerba Mate-An earthy tea type drink, this drink can be found everywhere- head to a park on a nice day and you will see people drinking it, take a bus and the bus driver likely has his thermos of hot water and his mate with him; almost everyone drinks it and they drink it all the time and everywhere they go! The first time you try it, I would definitely recommend adding some sugar, yerba mate has a strong taste and the sugar helps. There is a certain ritual that goes into drinking mate: first, one person prepares the drink in the hollow gourd or “mate”, then he or she hands it to someone who drinks a few sips out of the silver straw, then, the correct thing to do is to pass the cup back to the preparer who tops off the water and then hands it to someone else to drink (usually going in a clockwise order).
Malbec– the wines of Argentina have become increasingly popular over the years and malbec is the king of them all. It can be found at a variety of price points at restaurants and win shops all over the city.
Beer– while there are a few national brands like Quilmes, I don’t really care for them. There are, however, some wonderful microbreweries starting to pop up. Manush in Bariloche and Antares in Buenos Aires are two such examples and they both produce excellent beer.
Restaurants to Try:
Arepera– this Venezuelan restaurant specializes in, what else, arepas. Arepas are light cornmeal flatbread like cakes that are light and fluffy on the inside, but crispy and delicious on the outside. Pop them open and stuff them with chicken, beef, veggies, cheese and sauce. At Arepera we tried the sampler platter loaded with a variety of veggies, beans, beef, chicken, cheeses and sauce and it was phenomenal. They fill up quickly, but because we got there early (a little after 8pm) they had a table available. Service was good and the price for the sampler platter we tried was reasonable.
Burger Joint– There are only 4 options on the menu at this tiny, full of character restaurant that is only identifiable by its neon burger sign outside. The walls are covered in writing from the thousands of people who have ventured in over the years and there is an undeniable charm about the place. The burgers are perfect, juicy and tender with a great char and each kind is unique and flavorful- we especially loved the Mexican burger with guacamole and grilled peppers, but the with blue cheese and caramelized onions was also wonderful. There are also a variety of tasty condiments to add to your burger or fries from curry ketchup to honey mustard. It was one of our favorite places in BA.
Antares– Upscale pub food that is well cooked and flavorful and their beer is awesome as well. Hit them up for happy hour from 7-8 (they open at 7) and enjoyed 2-for-1 beers. Try the honey beer, it was my absolute favorite- not too sweet but with a good depth of flavor and very tasty! Servers are not always super attentive but can be waved down fairly easily.
Sarkis– this middle eastern restaurant opens at 8pm, but get there early to get your name on the list so you can get a seat as there is often a lively crowd waiting to get in. The have an English menu and the servers speak good English. They are also friendly and polite and made excellent recommendations for us.
Other Notes:
Many cafes are open throughout day, but restaurants may close between lunch and dinner or not open until dinner- which, in Buenos Aires, means 8pm at the earliest. Restaurants stay busy until well after 11pm even on weekdays.