Although Nick had spent 6 months studying abroad in the Czech Republic he was not a great resource about the food there. He remembered the beer, the goulash and these bacon and cheese covered rolls that he ate on a daily basis. So, that was what we had to go on, it wasn’t much.
To learn more about the food we reached out to Czech food bloggers to get the lay of the land. We interviewed Charlotte of czechinthekitchen.com and learned that Czech food is more about using what is available and improvising with what you have on hand than it is about precise measurements and strict culinary rules.
About Czech Food
The Czech food culture has traditionally been influenced by (and contributed its own influences to) its neighbors, including Ukraine and Poland.
According to Charlotte “there are so many things that are similar from various culture such as the (Ukrainian and Polish) perogies and similar to vereniki (Jewish) and our Czech dumplings (in soups) are similar to matza balls that come from Jewish kitchens. Also the Italians make gnocchi which are similar to a Czech dish as well as similar to the German Kartoffelkloesse. Though the shapes may change and the seasoning may differ slightly so many of the foods from various European places seem to have a relative in another country.”
Throughout the Czech Republic, meat plays a large role in the dishes. While we did see plenty of chicken and beef dishes, it was pork that we saw the most. In fact, pork is so popular that it is featured in what is widely considered the national dish: Roast pork, dumplings and cabbage. Of course, in a country that has seen its share of hardships, the whole pig is used.
Tripe soup and pork cracklings are part of the traditional fare, and sausage plays a large role as well. There is also an emphasis on seasonal ingredients.
Since we were there in winter, we found a large variety of seasonal menus and all featured traditional winter vegetables-carrots, cabbage, beets and potatoes. We have heard that during the summer there is a greater variety, as is appropriate for summer. Mushrooms and cabbage were very predominate on menus.
Looking for Something a bit Healthier?
Czech cuisine is known for its hearty meat dishes (traditionally eaten after a hard day on the farm), rich sauces and overall, heavy fare. We were warned on several occasions that there were not a lot of lighter or healthier options.
That being said, we did notice that most menus had a few vegetarian options. Risottos and salads or fried cheese with french fries topped the list of most common vegetarian dishes. Not exactly lighter or healthier options there, but at least vegetarian.
We did manage to find a few places that offered grilled vegetables or other vegetable heavy fare, but it was few and far between. There were some whole grain bread options and the markets had plenty of fruits and vegetables to choose from.
Must Try
Goulash
Yup, it’s probably a bit cliche to recommend goulash, but the truth is, it is amazing. A thick, hearty, well spiced sauce covering tender pieces of pork surrounded by fluffy dumplings and, more often than not, served with thinly sliced raw onions and spicy peppers. It really is the bee’s knees! Try this lightened up vegetarian version at home!
Bramboracka
Potato soup seasoned with garlic, caraway seeds and made hearty with the addition of carrots, celeriac, mushrooms and onions. It warms you from the inside out and is highly recommended for cold winter days! Also, this one can be a vegetarian option, sometimes (there are plenty of different versions!).
Pickled Cheese (Nakládaný Hermelin)
Not quite as weird as it sounds, this typical pub food is a soft camembert-like cheese marinated in olive oil, garlic and spices. Goes well with a cold beer!
Roast Pork with Dumplings and Cabbage
The national dish of the Czech Republic, this dish can be found at many restaurants, although the dumplings often alternate between bread dumplings and potato dumplings. It is a hearty and filling meal, the contrast between the tangy, sauerkraut like cabbage and the sweetness of the pork mixes perfectly!
Tripe Soup (Drstkova)
A treat for those adventurous enough to try it! It comes highly recommended from several Czech food bloggers and though we did not get the chance to try it, if you find it, definitely go for it!
Bread
It comes with everything and is a great mixture of sourdough with caraway seeds. I couldn’t get enough!
Honey Cake (Modovnik)
Highly recommended, this cake is layered with a creamy caramel and is absolutely amazing! Czechinthekitchen has a great recipe for it here.
What to Drink
Beer (Pivo)
Of course! The Czechs are very proud of their beer and there are plenty of delicious brews to choose from.
They brought the world the Pilsner beer and have perfected it at Pilsner Urquell brewery in Plzeň. Of course, there are plenty of other great brews like Staropramen, Budweiser (the original and much tastier) and Starobrno. But don’t limit yourself, many cities have their own brewery, like Cesky Krumlov’s Eggenberg Brewery with their unique smoked beer.
It’s not just pilsners either, there are a variety of dark beers and Charlotte recommends ordering your beer “rezana” or “cut”, (half light beer, half darker beer) and enjoying it with tripe soup and some of the delicious dark bread!
Becherovka
A Czech liquor-herbal bitters- with a predominate cinnamon/licorice flavor. It is often served with tonic water or on its own as a small shot.
Restaurants to Try
Brno
Pod Radnicnim Kolem
A great restaurant located in a cellar- a great, cosy interior with an awesome atmosphere. Best of all, it was non-smoking. They had a huge menu and a large wine selection. It was slightly more expensive than other restaurants in the area, but still very reasonable by US standards. We both gave into the temptation of the goulash, so I am afraid I cannot review anything else on the menu. The goulash was excellent! The dumplings had large pieces of different kinds of breads and there was a pleasant kick to the goulash. We loved it!
Prague
Lokal
A very charming, very busy restaurant. When we arrived they were full so we took a spot at one of the standing tables near the door. We had just ordered our beer and were perusing the menu when a waitress asked if we would like to sit and took us to a table, so don’t be disheartened if it is full when you arrive. We had a variety of dishes there from sausages with whipped horseradish and mustard to chicken salad and roast pork with dumplings and cabbage. All winners! The service was good as well. There were several servers walking around with pints of beer, ready to replace any empty glasses they saw- you will not go thirsty here!
Cesky Krumlov
Pivovar Eggenberg
We didn’t try the food, but enjoyed the fun atmosphere and the great beer (their dark beer was especially good!)!
MLS Creperie
A chain creperie, the crepes were quite tasty, the hot chocolate rich, but not too sweet and the chimney cakes (trdelnik) were good. A great place to stop for a snack on a cold day!
České Budějovice
Budvarka
The non-smoking section was quite small and still pretty smokey. The food was good, but the dumplings were a bit tough. The beer was good and the prices were excellent.
Indicka Restaurace
This was actually an Indian restaurant. We were pleasantly surprised by the food, it was really good if not quite as spicy as we would have liked. The English translations on the menu are vague at best, but everything we had was very good!
Fontana Pizzaria
Great pizza, tons of options and all reasonable priced. We split one pizza which was more than enough for us, but the server acted surprised that we only ordered one pizza. She also only brought one set of silverware and one plate. The biggest drawback was the smoking. While no one was smoking while we were there, it was still a bit smokey in the place.
Plzen
Pilsner Urquell Brewery Tour
While the restaurant nearby, Na Spilce, is just ok (but cheap!) the brewery tour is very good- it is state of the art and very interactive. We got to sample their barley and hops and had unpasteurized, unfiltered Pilsner Urquell. Of course, the fresh Pilsner Urquell would have made up for just about anything. Fortunately, it was all good.
Other notes
Ask for the “denni” or daily menu. Usually a lunchtime special, this menu is a great way to eat well on the cheap!
Have cash! Many restaurants will take credit cards, but not all of them do, so be sure and check upon arrival or have enough cash to cover the meal.
Want to learn more? Check out the full interview with Czech Food Blogger Charlotte here and learn about Czech food from a native!